![]() ![]() The external ones show you the individual pressure and temperature for each wheel. I know there's ways around the cold weather issue (resetting the TPMS with lower pressures), but it still sucks. It tends to trigger a warning when the cold weather comes in, and it never tells you which wheel is at fault or by how much. They are also bulky and protrude a lot, which contributed to the situation I'm in now.īut, the problem with the internal TPMS is that it doesn't provide much information. The two different metals in contact with each other end up corroding each other and make removing the TPMS caps very difficult. The problem with the external TPMS is that the cap threads are made from brass and the valve stem on the wheel is made from aluminium. The issue with not using the internal TPMS is that it will display the warning in the car if it can't receive a signal, so the car will fail its next annual test. The going rate for a local garage swapping the old one for an after-market one, and just cloning the ID of the old one, is the equivalent of about around $75 (£55). It's the standard OEM Toyota additional cost. The price includes removal of wheel, tyre, the old sensor and stem, the cost of the new sensor and stem, refitting it all, removing the old sensor from the car's ECU via TechStream, and adding the new one, road testing, valet, and a cup of coffee while I'm waiting. I was going to wait till the next set of tires, but I am not driving much nowadays, If I waited for the next set of tires, it will be several more years. The cost of TPMS installation is the same as installing a new tire. But I recently had a shop install the Autel MX sensors which came with the TPMS tool I bought and cloned IDs from summer wheels into my winter wheels. I had no TPMS on my winter wheels for 3+ years and used external TPMS sensors. If I take my car to a dealer to install an OEM sensor, they charge $100-$150/wheel. Where I live, it cost ~$50/wheel for aftermarket non-programmable TPMS sensor parts and installation at a tire shop. You can also go with aftermarket TPMS, like Autel MX, but then you will need it to be programmed. Why is the price so high? Does $160/wheel include installation? It was not for Prius, but the last OEM sensors I bought for Honda (also made by Pacific, I think), I paid less than $10/pc from eBay. But if I just bring a tire, they will switch it. In the US, by law, tire shops can not replace working TPMS sensors with a standard valve on a car. Never use rubber or plastic valve extenders.Yeah, if you are using an external TPMS sensor, there is no point in having internal TPMS sensors too. The valve extender itself can also come loose, causing a blowout or additional damage to your transmitter and rim. This will cause pressure and signal issues with your TireMinder TPMS. This is due to the fact that many of they are not consistently pressurized, which means that they only pressurize for enough time to receive a gauge reading. They cause the most leaks, the most tire pressure and signal loss alerts, and the most overall headaches. ![]() This will damage both the transmitter and your rim.īraided steel valve extenders are not recommended. When being bent, please instruct your tire dealer to provide enough room so that the TireMinder transmitter does not rub against the tire rim. These type of valve stems can be altered by your tire dealer to correctly bend into place. If you have to use a valve stem, we highly recommend straight metal valve stems. Using these kits is the safest way to protect your tires from valve stem related issues. Other suppliers will also carry similar dually valve stem kits. We recommend taking a look at 's dually valve stem kits ( link). Straight valve stems are recommended for safely using any TPMS. They have been known to cause leaks, which can lead to a blowout, as well as no signal errors (see Pressurized vs Non-Pressured Extenders). This is because valve extenders create an additional issue point. If you can, we highly recommend not using valve extenders when using a TPMS. ![]()
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